Thursday, September 14, 2017 at 8 a.m.
If you plan on trying Trevor’s At the Tracks, I suggest taking the Metrolink. It’s especially worth it if you go during the weekend, when the train fare is $10 for an all-day pass. And there really is no better way to arrive than on a train. This is because Trevor’s At the Tracks is located inside the San Juan Capistrano station.
Actually, I should rephrase: The restaurant is the San Juan Capistrano station. Or at least that’s what the building housed after it was erected in 1894. It closed in the ’60s, then reopened in the ’70s; the whole complex was completely refurbished in 1995. The renovation preserved the majestic dome and the Mission Revival architecture, but it repurposed the space to accommodate two restaurants. Until last year, the long-running Sarducci’s occupied the spot in which Trevor’s now sits.
When it opened in February, Trevor’s retained Sarducci’s courtyard and gurgling fountain. With at least a half-hour’s wait even after you secured a reservation, these outdoor seats are the most coveted. But I’d argue the best place to soak in the history is the long hallway that leads to the main dining room. Above you, ancient-looking rotary fans linked by a system of belts whip the air. Arched windows give a front-row view of the trains gliding in and out.
The food is prototypical Californian, middle-of-the-road fare with vaguely Asian influences and specific Mexican ones. There’s an ambiguously Vietnamese rice-paper spring roll with curried shrimp and plum sauce, but also a pretty good ceviche and made-to-order guacamole. Outside of Sunday brunch, Trevor’s…
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